Naples Food Market Tour

The produce worth looking at

Walking through a Neapolitan market, a few products deserve a closer look because they tell you something about the region:

• Tomatoes. San Marzano tomatoes, grown on the volcanic slopes near Vesuvius, are long, thin-skinned and sweet, and are the classic choice for sauces. Small pomodorini hang in strings through the winter.
• Lemons and citrus. Large, fragrant lemons from the Sorrento and Amalfi coasts are often sold with their leaves still attached.
• Greens. Friarielli, a bitter leafy green related to broccoli rabe, is sautéed with garlic and chilli and served with sausage, and it appears all over the city in cooler months.
• Cheese. Mozzarella di bufala from Campania, smoked provola, ricotta and aged provolone are the cheeses of the region.
• Seafood. Mussels, clams, octopus, anchovies and sea bream appear at the fish stalls, usually sold whole.

How Neapolitans shop

Shopping at a market here is a conversation. Vendors expect you to look, ask what is good today and be told, often at volume. Locals typically buy exactly what they need for that day’s meal, and a stallholder will often tell you how to cook what you are buying. Do not squeeze produce unless you are invited to; many vendors prefer to choose for you, and that is part of the relationship.

It helps to know a few words. Quanto costa? asks the price, un etto means about a hundred grams, and basta così means that is enough. A smile and a bit of Italian go a long way, even if the rest of the exchange is in gestures.

Seasons and time of day

Markets are at their liveliest in the morning, when stock is freshest and the crowd of regular shoppers is thickest. By the afternoon, many stalls are packing up and the pick of the fish has often gone. Summer brings tomatoes, peaches, figs, melons and basil in huge quantity, while autumn and winter lean towards greens, citrus, chestnuts, artichokes and broccoli. Because Naples is warm for much of the year, the pace often slows in the heat of the day.

Naples on foot, around the markets

The historic centre is compact and ideal for exploring on foot. A few landmarks worth knowing about:

• Spaccanapoli, the long straight street that cuts through the old Greek and Roman street grid.
• Via dei Tribunali, lined with churches, pizzerias and the ancient heart of the city.
• Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, with its unusual diamond-pointed church facade.
• The Quartieri Spagnoli, the dense grid of narrow lanes climbing from Via Toledo.

Wander without a fixed plan and you will find small bakeries, coffee bars and shrines tucked into corners. Naples rewards curiosity, and its markets are a good place to start.